Club Compact

[Ady]

Hi guys, Ive now spent many hours reading most of the posts but its now time to get real and spend the cash. I have obtained a really cheap cat c 70000 mile 04/1998 Compact 318ti M44 1895cc rear discs, auto with sunroof!!! VIC check completed. Intention is to build msa log booked stage rally car within 1 year. Car now fully stripped ready for welding etc.

Any useful help will be greatly received as im now tearing my hair out(whats left of it) to progress in the correct direction. (getting confused)

Thinking of many ways (m3 transplant) but would like light weight set up with good brakes, suspension instead of horsepower.

Any suggestions what diff,cwp, gearbox idea if i use the M44 engine?

Or should i just go the E36 3.0 M3 route whilst im doing it?

Will post some pics when i work out how to post them!!!

[m3heaven]

Welcome to the forum Ady.

Have you read any posts by forum members M3Compact and Notax? They both run E36 compacts with M3 engines.

If you decide to go down the M3 route, I'll give you some details where you get buy the best used m3 parts in the country . Not too far from Lincs either. And they always take M44 engines in as p.x. And are well known to offer great discounts for BMW Rallying Forum members


Sunbmw is the forum expert on image posting.

[M3 Compact]

Welcome to the forum, Ady.

Use photobucket.com to host your pics and insert them between the image tags...

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Good luck with your project & drivetrain decision.

Sometimes I regret using the E36 M3 engine, sometimes I don't.

4.45 (standard/ £50 - £150) is the lowest available CWP for <£700.

[is-si]

Ady wrote

would like light weight set up with good brakes, suspension instead of horsepower

This can be easily acheived as many parts can be upgraded with bits off higher spec' and `M' models. To remain light an M42 engine is a direct fit and can be tuned, otherwise it will be a heavy M3 powerhouse upfront.

Without spending lots gearing is `ok' as theres usually 4 out of 5 good ratios - this all depends on engine choice.

Most people upgrade the small case diff (4 bolt side flanges) to a `medium` case diff (6 bolt side flanges). Second hand LSD's can be found easily, these can then be modified for `Atlas' clutch packs - Strength and reliability is good. CWP's can be sourced second hand up to 4.45:1 beyond that it gets expensive.

Upload your photos to photobucket then paste the given links into your posts/threads

[notax]

Hi Ady I started off going down the lightweight, good brakes, suspension, route too (albeit car had a standard 325 engine when I started...) As you'll have read I've now gone for the big horsepower approach too - and unlike M3 Compact I don't have any regrets. Car may not have the ultimate handling balance - but it goes like stink, sounds great and I can drive around the handling issues (so far at least...)

I think most on here would agree that the important thing is to get out there and compete and start having fun - all too easy to spend ages getting a car sorted and never have time to use it (ring any bells??? )

I'd suggest following my route - keep the drivetrain you've got and initially get the other bits sorted (poly window kit, decent suspension, good brakes) as these will all be useful irrespective of power plant. When funds allow you can always upgrade engine in the future - and M3 Heaven comes highly recommended - and not only by himself

Good luck - hope to see you at an event soon

[Ady]

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[img][img]http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss39/Adym3c/IMG_0070_1.jpg[/img][/img]

Thanks for the response chaps. Here are a couple of pics to start off with.
Yesterday i was at Manby, Lincolnshire for the Bill Cammack Rally but only spectating. My mate went well in his 4.0 Manta though. (only 1 E30 there).

Mig welder is delivered tomorrow!!!!

[Ady]

Hi guys, more help needed.

Progress so far:
Safety Devices Challenge spec roll cage installed and very snug (Phil PDL Motorsport) Top Bloke
M3 S50B30 engine to be collected at the weekend (Russ M3Spares) Top Bloke

Anyone got a Diff forsale suitable for running with standard 5speed box and M3 prop.
OR
Give me a few pointers towards more top blokes who can sort me out.

It appears one option is E30 325lsd medium case with atlas modification and use E30 driveshafts. Not sure about CWP.

Its All fun but my Heads Spinning.

[is-si]

refer to notax's and m3compacts threads, i think 4.45 cwp's seem to be the way forward.
looks like you'll be getting busy on the spanners, keep us updated

[notax]

Fantastic news - another M3 compact Good luck sourcing the bits you need - agree Russ is a top bloke

Out of interest I'm running with the 318ti gearbox mated to my M3 - with a 318 paddle clutch. Ratios are really good with a 4.1 diff (from an American E30 apparently...)

Any chance you'll be finished by mid August??? three of us made it to Richard Burns Rally last year - be great if you could make it too

[Ady]

Any chance you'll be finished by mid August??? three of us made it to Richard Burns Rally last year - be great if you could make it too

The plan is to be there but unlikely

Well the engine is in now but would like some pointers before it is fired up. I have binned the recirulation EGR valve and blanking plate in place.

1. Which wires do i need to link on the EWS (Russ M3 Heaven stated 1&7). The engine is early M3 without EWS but the loom is out of 318ti auto with EWS.

2. Do i need any additional wires as using M3 dials. (oil temperature gauge?)

2. The standard fuel tank will be used, but do i need to use the expansion tank item (blue pipes connected) near fillercap or can i just connect the main tank to the filler neck.

3. Any advice on vertical handbrakes and bias valves. Comp brakes look to have a good one but does the valve have enough adjustment range. Set up is M3 vented discs & calipers front and 318 solid disc and calipers at rear. Should the bias valve control the rear or do i need to turn the larger front brakes down.

4. What size cylinder for the handbrake .625/.700/.750

Many Thanks and I will be uploading some more pictures soon

[m3heaven]

Ady,

it may be worth sending a pm to ian332isport regarding the wiring. He is the man when it comes to BMW wiring. I'm sure he will be happy to assist in any electrical issues.

We need some project images.

[M3 Compact]

Do i need any additional wires as using M3 dials. (oil temperature gauge?)

Excellent write up from E36 forum for cluster info...

If there is one thing about the stock 328 speedo cluster that has ALWAYS annoyed me it's the fapping useless MPG gauge !! It's always reminded me of my mates old Toyota Corrola that had one and even in that I thought it was awful

I've always liked the way the M3's did away with the MPG gauge in favour of a much more useful oil temp guage. For a while I've been planning to fit an aux oil temp gauge but figured going for an M3 cluster would give a more OEM look and give me an oil temp reading that was directly in my line of sight rather than in the centre console.

Anyway, today was the day I decided to get on with the install. I did a fair bit of reading up before hand both on here and a few USA forums. It's a common'ish mod for the USA M3 guys to fit the Euro M3 cluster for exactly the same reason as me.

Important tech note: There were two types of speedo clusters used during the life of the E36. The first type stored its mileage data on the speedo PCB whilst the newer types (facelift on from what I can tell) use a "coding plug" to store info about mileage. With the latter types you can simply swap the coding plugs between your old and new cluster and your mileage should be fine (assuming your car has MORE miles than the speedo you're going to fit has - apparently the cluster will use whatever mileage is higher but I cannot confirm this for UK clusters). If you have the earlier type without a coding plug then you'll have to have the mileage corrected by a specialist if you want it to be accurate.

Here's how to identify a coding plug / non-coding plug equiped cluster:

No coding plug - Motometer
With coding plug - VDO

It is possible to fit a newer type cluster to an older car (which is what I have done as my OEM speedo did not have a coding plug whereas my M3 cluster does) but you need a wiring adaptor to correct an ABS light issue i.e. it stays permanently lit . I will be ordering the harness adaptor tomorrow (BMW P/N: 61 12 8 374 946) and will update this thread with feedback once it's in. For the time being I'm stuck with a permanently lit ABS warning light.

UPDATE: I've just fitted the kit as supplied by BMW and the ABS light is now back to normal i.e. lit during cluster check but unlit at other times unless a fault occurs

Here are some pics showing the install of the kit:

Kit as supplied
Kit + supplied instructions covering both E36 and E38
Kit components

Here's the install:

1. Install the supplied harness electrical connector into the BLUE cluster connector at PIN 21 - Clicky
2. Re-assemble the BLUE connector
3. Route the new wire over to the WHITE cluster connector
4. Connect the new wire + orange & brown wire running to the WHITE electrical connector and click the supplied wiring block shut - Clicky
5. Re-connect the cluster and re-fit

Here's the outcome: ABS light back to normal

For the install all you do is fit the supplied wiring harness electrical connector wire into the blue connector block at pin 21. You then run the wire over to the white connector and use the supplied electrical block to connect the

Cluster Install

The install itself is actually very easy

I'm not going to detail removal of the cluster as it's already details well here: Piccies + Locking connectors + Removal process - the last link actually details how to fit white gauge backs but just ignore anything past the removal of the cluster.

Oil Temp Sender

What I will detail is how to get the oil temp gauge working !! I figure this is the most important bit for most of us.

You will need:

1 x VDO 150C temp sender (M12 x 1.5mm) = £22 delivered from ETB Instruments - super friendly and the only UK supplier I could find that could cross reference a USA VDO part number for me!!
VDO UK part number: 323.801/010/003 K
1 x speedo wiring harness electrical connector

You can purchase the electrical connector pin from BMW apparently but I actually used a connector pin from an old airbag slip ring I had lying around (as you do ). You need one of these: Eletrical connector pin

I'll pick up the install assuming you've removed the cluster.

1. Open the white electrical connector (there's a white tab that slides off of the bottom to reveal the brown connection block inside)
2. Install your new harness connector pin into socket number 13 (it will be empty as standard - Empty socket + New harness connector pin installed
3. With the new connector pin in socket 13 re-assemble the white electrical connector
4. Extend the wire for the new pin connector (you're going to need enough wire to go down underneath the dash, through the bulk head and then down to the sump where you'll install the VDO oil temp sender

NOTE: I ran my sender wire through the large rubber grommet above the accelerator pedal. It comes out just behind the break servo and you can just about get your hand to it if you push it through from the drivers side footwell (I taped my wire to a large wooden BBQ skewer and poked it through ). If you've got hands like spades you'll struggle to get behind the servo so you might need to find an alternative route

5. Get the car in the air - you'll need to remove the sump drain plug and run wiring so make sure to use axle stands!!
6. Drop the sender wire down the back of the bulk head (I routed mine behind my lambda wiring so as to keep it away from the exhaust manifolds)
7. Remove the oil drain plug and fit the VDO sender in its place (remember to swap over the copper washer onto the sender before fitting - I had my girly do that whilst I plugged the drain hole with a finger !) - Sender fitted
8. All you need to do now is route your wiring as best you can, I opted to tie wrap mine to my x-brace to keep it protected and ensure it didn't get snagged - Wiring routed and connected to sender
9. Drop the car off the axle stands - you're done

That's it really. Not terribly hard and well worth the effort IMHO.

As stated above the ABS light is permanently lit on my cluster right now but apart from that everything else is perfect.

Here's the finished article in and working Working M3 cluster

Hope that helps

Thanks

M3 Compact - for detailing the oil temp cluster input pin!!

[Ady]

Thanks for that M3 Compact, very useful.

I will have the car started this weekend and then I will see which bits need attention.

Project pics very soon.

Cheers.

[Ady]

Hi Chaps.

Latest update on car.
















M3 Clocks, Ap bias valve, vertical hand brake.

Chav bonnet vents. Nice.

Engine sounds nice.

The cars had its first accident!!! My mate dropped an unidentified object on it!!!!

Now the next stumbling block is to sort the diff out but not having any luck.

[m3heaven]

Nice progress Ady.

Have you tried Russ C for a Diff?