![]() M3 Rally CarModerator: is-si
38 posts
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3.23:1 ratio on the evo (large case).
Some 3.0 litre and 3.2 evos had aluminium doors. I have only ever seen them on N registered cars. They are rare. My last pair ended up on Sunbmw's car. Never seen aluminum doors on the M3 GT Individual either (U.K. spec RHD)
It's actually 3.2307692307692307692307692307692(307692 recurring) - so there.
And there was me hoping for a 3.23178564238987546 diff, ah well the search goes on.
Tearing things out has been progressing. Takes more time when you have an eye on not destroying what you remove in case it's worth anything.
The interior is mostly out, just got to find how the heater/blower is fastened, although I haven't put much effort into, preferring to drain the coolant from the outside first. Nobody mentioned the shear bolts on the column! not decided the best course of action yet.
The front was next, and I've now started towards engine removal.
A couple of question for all the M3 know-it-alls. Towards the rear of the engine beneath the plenum are a multitude of sensors, solenoids and other exciting looking bits and pieces connected to the planum, although I haven't really studied these yet. How many of these are required ?. If they are disconnected/binned does the ECU have a fit when it's reconnected.
I assume the ignition key is coded, so when I remove the barrel from the steering column the ECU will see no key and refuse to do anything. I think sunbmw you are using a std ECU suitably modified? If anyone is interested I bought www.m3rally.com (and .co.uk ) which is hosted on a spare PC in the house so only only normally in the evenings. It has more photos if you want to laugh, it started as a way of recording all the important bits for when I put it back together, and also for the girl I bought the car off to see how it's doing. Her last email was titled "traumatised", she being surprised that rally spec was more than seatbelts and stickers.
It looks like your car is EWS equipped (electronic watchdog system). If you pull out the white module with the yellow connector (about 3" x 2" x 1") under the central body electronics module in the picture, it should have EWS and some German written on it. Or just check around the barrel for the loop aerial, it will have two small green wires running to a black module on the steering column.
You need to remove the heater box by removing the nuts that hold the blower motor assy onto the car/heater box. These are located in the engine bay, you will need a deep 10mm 3/8 drive socket. You cannot remove the carpet in one piece without removing the heater box first. As for sensors and solenoids on the engine, I would say keep them. Just bin the emission control pump and a/c compressor.
Bit of an update.
Got most of the inside removed, and the engine is ready to come out. Spent many most enjoyable evenings removing black %$£* and seam sealer from the floor. Also spent much time trying to remove the barrel from the steering lock - unsuccessfully. Subject of topic elsewhere. Having seen M3C and his difficulties with the MAFF, and also my SAAB having a fit about changing the seat (Now the indicators work, but there is no relay click and no dashboard indication, and because the Air Bag light has come on the Radio doesn't work - I only wired the electric seats !) I think I will go with a DTA management system as they come as std with a map for a VANOS engine. I may also go for the fancy display so that all parameters can be displayed, time will tell on this one. Went to Miss Notax land (The Southampton Wallet Emptying show AKA Boat Show) and contemplated the kind of money that would buy a team of these http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BMW-COMPACT-RALLY ... 286.c0.m14 but managed to resist. Anyway, after all rubbish is removed seam welding is next.
I'm very interested to see how you go on with this, Chris. I'm as tight as a duck's arse, but I'm seriously not adverse to P/Xing my enviable collection of empty Budweiser & Jacob's Creek bottles for a trusted/proven non-BMW ECU & map. I can't be arsed with unreliable rally cars or fcuked engines and I'm happy to sacrifice some power for a finish and some entry fee/hassle value. Deffo interested in using a non-BMW ECU, but I think I'd ditch the Vanos at the same time.
I like that. SWES. I might try and drop that into my next sales meeting
PM me, I may have a budget alternative,,,,,,,,,,,,
Hmmmmm, very interesting.............. ![]() No longer a BMW Rallyist, but please don't kick me out........ http://www.m3spares.com http://www.ultimateid.co.uk
I work for Sailing Today magazine (you would be surprised how many deals are actually done there!)
Time for an update.
Slight delay due to cool weather. Had to engage the services of Wifey in helping to remove the screen with a piece of wire and 2 pairs of mole grips. At least she's quite strong now Bought a cage from Custom cages. It's the first cage I have fitted, and it's not entirely straightforward. CC first instruction is DO NOT CUT ANY TUBES. But then nothing fits, and after a chat with them, and Sunbmw, it turns out you have to trim or cut most tubes. The diagram is only really a sketch, the photos are of a different design. etc etc. Still, it looks mighty strong and fits very tightly to the shell. Should get most, if not all, of the remaining welding complete this weekend. New bits have been arriving. 6 Pot calipers, hydraulic handbrake and pedal box from Compbrake. Seats are hopefully on their way. M3h is due a visit soon for assorted odds and sods. Suspension remains unresolved. As expected billies are the choice when I asked around, but with current exchange rates they are £1900/set. I can get a bit of a deal, maybe around £1700, but that is still many beer tokens.
The Calipers
The cage as it stands. Need to put the steering column mount back in, fabricate a bracket for the pedal box, re-weld all the holes cut for the cage, seal the boot for the tank, (Sooooo many holes I'll try to update sooner next time
Great to see everything progressing
We are based near Romsey... What size brake discs have you gone for? Are they made by the same company? ![]()
Cheers Ntx.
Discs are 330. I could have got bigger under 18", but you never know may decide I want 17"s at some point.
They came from Compbrake also, although they are made in the States. APs are very nice, but not for the faint of wallet. Compbrake calipers seem to have a good reputation, let's hope for good reasons. They are far kinder to the wallet for sure. Bovington is not too far, but I must resist and prepare car to give you some competition. Most of the entries are people I normally go against. Dave Parnell in the Mk1 will be V Quick, probably a top 3 looking at the list. Have fun, and I look forward to the photo of the Pot
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